The Rusty Nut Bible: How to undo seized, damaged or broken
- 227 pages
- The Rusty Nut Bible: How to undo seized, damaged or broken nuts, bolts, studs and screws.
- Chas Newport
- 21 February 2017 Chas Newport
The cheapest parts for vehicles, bikes, boats and buildings are the ones you can reuse But one stubborn bolt or screw can be a disaster The three most common bits of advice are heat it until it glows red, use a longer spanner and use a grinder All of them might work but they all risk damaging the part, the building or vehicle under repair, and possibly even you We ve designed a simple, effective,step freeing system to Preserve expensive, rare, or irreplaceable parts Protect existing structures from brute force damage Minimise collateral damage and the risk of injury Save time waiting for replacement parts Save money on parts and labourWe also cover what to do if things have already gone wrongHandling Head damage External drive heads hex, bihex, square, etc Internal drive heads Allen, Torx, spline, etcHandling Thread damage External shaft thread repair and replacementInternal bore thread refurbishment and repair HandlingSheared or snapped shafts Protruding stump extractionFlush with surface extraction or removal Extensive Appendices on Basic ToolsSpecialist ToolsPersonal Protective Equipment PPE The Six Simple MachinesEXTENSIVELY UPDATEDNEW Web Link ResourceImproved ReadabilityEnhanced DiagramsTriple Jump Chapter IndexingThe hazards of Internet wisdom heat it, use a longer spanner, grind it offHeat Works well for a nut on a bolt because the nut circumference expands, making the hole bigger It also disrupts the rust crystals But what about a bolt seized in a bigger item like a brake caliper Expanding the bolt will disrupt the rust a bit, but that s about it, the bore won t get bigger Some items are designed to act as a heatsink to keep the things cool You ll need a very powerful, danergous heat sourceAll this assumes there aren t inflammable liquids, flexible hoses or painted surfaces nearby But vehicles are awash with flammable liquids and tend to have flexible hoses in the very places most likely to get rusty brakes, exhausts and transmission components Buildings always have varnished, painted surfaces and even plastics everywhereLonger Spanner This is the least likely to work It usually ends one of two ways rounding off at least two corners of the nut or bolt head, or shearing the bolt shaft This assumes you even have room for a huge lever or a small lever with a length of tubing threaded onto it and a heavy friend hanging off it Grinder The nuclear option You accept you ll have ground off bolt stump to extract, possibly paintwork to repair, and you grind the nut or bolt head off As with the long spanner this assumes you have enough space for a large spinning disk next to the bolt Also, showers of sparks and hot metal aren t a great combination with flammable liquids In cramped spaces you may find yourself unable to slide the assembly off the stump without fouling on something else You could have spotted that earlier, but when you re frustrated enough to reach this point, you generally don t